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All posts tagged sea salt

Soft & Chewy Salted Caramel

homemade caramel

Two years ago, I made my dad caramels for his birthday. They were hard and crunchy, like gold-wrapped Werther’s, the kind that would crack like glass when you bit them.

While I’d been after something a little more chewy that time, since that’s how Dad likes them most, it turned out candy-making could be something of an art, especially when you were new to it, so all I could muster were those smooth caramel stones, best for placing between your tongue and the roof of your mouth and slowly melting away. I gave them to him, presenting them proudly, and I put my candy thermometer away.

cooking caramel

But then this year, when Tim and I were up visiting a few months ago, talking to my dad in the kitchen about dinner plans or about something we’d baked, Dad, almost out of nowhere, asked if I’d thought about trying caramels again. Maybe soft and chewy this time? he’d asked, hopefully, like it would really mean something to him if I could.

caramels in pan

Now I know a lot of people would say their dad is great, the best, the guy they always looked up to, but my dad, who continually surprises me with his generosity and compassion and ability to think of other people more highly than himself, really is something special. And since he so rarely asks me to make him anything, I didn’t just want to make him these caramels—I had to.

Which meant it was time to revisit the art of candy-making.

caramels to cut

There’s a reason they call things an art, you know? The art of painting, the art of marriage, the art of caramels—you can’t just check some tasks off a list and expect genius. There’s some skill involved. Some creativity and some adjusting and some finding a rhythm. And usually, art isn’t easy.

For me, as if trying to make candy in the first place wasn’t challenge enough, I also wanted to do it with better ingredients: without corn syrup and without white sugar.

But while art isn’t easy, it is worth it.

caramels, wrapped

Because guess what? It worked.

It took three tries and two bonus trips to the grocery store, but last Wednesday night, while Tim and my brother-in-law and I drove up to Chicago for the holiday weekend, it was with more than thoughts of turkey and sweet potatoes and homemade cranberry sauce: It was with these soft and chewy salted caramels, created with sorghum syrup and sucanat, sitting in the back seat, individually wrapped and tucked inside a burlap-covered mason jar.

Happy birthday, Dad.

(He was worth it, too.)

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always, with lemon (roasted cauliflower)

sunday lunch at adam's

While it’s true I’m easily persuaded about most things, whether it’s trying cookies without flour, taking trips to new places or realizing I’d been wrong all along about that crazy thing called meatloaf, you could still say there are a few fixed aspects of my nature, ones I don’t expect I’ll ever shake.

It’s hard to imagine a me that didn’t love the sky, for example, who didn’t stare at the clouds or gasp at a golden sunset. Would I still be myself if I didn’t notice the seasons change? I love the way my dad chuckles when he knows he’s wrong, the way my mom only shows her full grin when she’s laughing hard, how my younger brother is a better driver, planner and cook than I am. And really, I’ll always move towards relationships without pretense. That’s just who I am.

cauliflower chopped

Since they say a person is defined by what she really loves, you might as well also know, in that case, that I like fall leaves and fresh fruit and people who sacrifice without expecting anything in return. I want warm sunshine and broad daylight and to spend time with those who know me.

Also, and no less important, there is lemon.
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close your eyes and eat

brown butter cookies

The truth is, I have more to tell you about D.C.—like about the crazy-sweet frosting at Hello Cupcake, which was tall enough to catch on the tip of our noses when we bit into the cake; the breakfast crepes across from our hotel, filled with Nutella and strawberries; the Neapolitan-style pizza at 2 Amys, a restaurant more than one of you recommended and that makes some killer prosciutto and potato croquettes. But that will all have to wait, maybe for a day when you and I sit down in person instead, because right now, there are bigger things to talk about. Things like this brown butter shortbread.

I actually made these shortbread cookies in December, and as for why I haven’t posted them until now: all I can offer is a pathetic nod to the seemingly unending cookie recipes that were flowing around here at that time. It had reached the point where, one day, I had to promise myself to stop—no more cookies!—in an effort to keep from being the Blogger Who Only Talks About One Thing, ever. Then again, now that I’m looking back, would that have been so bad?

There is a comfort in familiarity, which is probably why I’ve been craving cookies so much lately. When you’ve fought the world, so to speak, whether at your office, with your kids or on the highway—it’s nice to come home, take a warm bite of sweetness in your hands, close your eyes and eat.

brown butter shortbread cookies

This recipe comes from Lottie + Doof and offers a crumbly, nubbly texture with flecks of sea salt on top. Its flavor, sweet and nutty, is the kind that has you reaching for one piece after another, after another—and, believe me, I did.

Plus, while I wouldn’t say good looks are a requirement for comfort food, they’re certainly not a drawback—and these cookies are pretty. You might want to make them for someone you really like. Otherwise, you’ll have a hard time letting them go. Please trust me on this.

brown butter cookies

One more thing: subscribing! In the recent survey, a number of you indicated that you weren’t sure how to subscribe to Food Loves Writing. It really couldn’t be simpler, and I’m going to show you: go over to subscribe page and either (a) enter your e-mail to receive a note in your inbox when something new gets posted or (b) copy the link for an RSS feed here and insert it into your Google Reader or Bloglines account (or whatever RSS reader you use). If you want to know more about RSS and how it works, click here.




Brown Butter Shortbread
Adapted from Lottie + Doof

Ingredients:
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1/2 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
Granulated, Demerara, or Turbinado sugar for sprinkling (I used sugar in the raw)

Directions:
Lightly grease either a fluted tart pan (with a removable bottom) or an 8-inch square pan (lined with aluminum foil that hangs over the sides for easy removal).

Brown butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it turns a darker, caramel color and emits a warm, nutty smell. Be careful not to let it burn—you’re looking for deeper color, but it should not get blackish or smell burned at all. Once it’s reached the right consistency, remove it from heat.

Combine the melted butter with sugar, vanilla and salt in a medium bowl. Add flour and mix until combined. Spread dough in prepared pan, and let it stand for two hours or even overnight.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.

Bake the shortbread for 45 minutes; afterwards, remove the pan from the oven but leave the oven on. Lightly sprinkle the surface of the shortbread with the sugar, and let it cool for 10 minutes.

Carefully remove the sides of the tart pan or lift the shortbread out by the extended aluminum foil. Using a very sharp knife, cut the shortbread into 12 triangular wedges. Place these wedges on a baking sheet lined with parchment (or a Silpat). Return to the oven and toast for 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.