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Archive for May, 2009

the change that comes

potatoes and spoon

I am at a place right now where I am standing still in life.

Everywhere around me, people are rushing for things—new places and careers, new relationships, new life, even—and I am watching them.

I want to go forward, to take a step, join them, but instead I stare at my feet, unmoving and, if I’m honest, afraid.

slicing potatoes

Most days, I want a blueprint: a very, very specific outline of steps to take, with guarantees and/or backup plans, if possible. So I talk to people who’ve been in similar situations, and they tell me what they did, whether they got their first apartment at 17 or had to work their way through college or stayed at their first job for five years.

But no matter how similar life stories are, they aren’t the same. Following your choices won’t guarantee that I follow your life. Your future can’t be mine.

sliced potatoes

And I don’t really want it to be. Not when I’m honest. In fact, I don’t really want advice, either. I think I just want someone to listen and nod and say, you know, what’s supposed to happen will happen. Because I believe that.

Meanwhile, I take easy change where I can find it, and, at least for me, that means the kind that happens in the kitchen, routinely, every day.

assembling

Like, I take a baby gold potato in my hand, set in on a wooden spoon and make quick slices, then smothering it with olive oil and butter, tossing salt and pepper and sage on top. A full bag of these goes onto a cookie sheet, slid into a hot oven that warms my face and hands when I open and close its door. In an hour: what was cold, raw flesh has become hot, soft and tender, fragrant and flavorful. The skins have wrinkled and darkened, the juices have sunk in deep.

potatoes filled

Hasselback potatoes are really something special. Beautiful and intelligent. Requiring a bit of effort for something very impressive. I think they look like little snails, but that doesn’t sound appetizing, so let’s say they look like little fans—waves that are crusty and golden, juicy and crispy.

hasselback potatoes

And the bit of effort that goes into creating them—the slicing and stuffing, which is mindless work—yields great returns when you look at these, but even more when you taste them.

That’s the kind of change I don’t have to think twice about choosing, which is, of course, welcome indeed.




Hasselback Potatoes
Inspired by Falling Cloudberries

Ingredients:
1.5 pounds of baby gold potatoes
Olive oil
3 Tablespoons butter
Chopped sage
Salt and pepper

Directions:
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F (220 degrees C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and drizzle olive oil on top to prevent the potatoes from sticking.

Take potatoes, one by one, and set on a wooden spoon, slicing top to bottom along the length of the body at even intervals. To make the slits larger, you can slice tiny bits of the potato out by slicing at alternating diagonals. (I did this with some and not with others – both worked fine.)

Set the sliced potatoes on the oiled baking sheet, being careful not to break them apart. Drizzle with olive oil. Insert bits of butter between the openings in each potato. Sprinkle sage all over. Sprinkle salt and pepper all over.

Slide baking sheet in oven and bake for 30 to 45 minutes, tossing the potatoes once after 20 minutes in the heat.

what I’d hoped for

Saturday omelette

Saturday, I wanted an omelette.

Thing is, I am scared of omelettes. But when I am scared of something, kitchen-wise, it’s usually a good idea to see what Julia Child has to say, and so it was that I turned to Mastering the Art of French Cooking, where detailed, illustrated instructions explain how to master this task, if by nothing else than practicing for days at a time.

asparagus

Among the helpful guidelines were these:

1. Use high heat: This is really important for getting the eggs to cook properly and quickly.
2. Use a non-stick pan: You’ll be shaking the pan around a lot, and a non-stick pan keeps the omelette from sticking.
3. Work quickly: Julia says you shouldn’t even have your cookbook nearby to double-check with. If you’re checking the instructions, you’re taking too long.

After studying the recipe for a bit, I went to work and in minutes, I’d achieved the very thing I hoped for: a lightly golden fold of eggs, mozzarella and chopped asparagus, firm out the outside and tender at the center, thoroughly cooked throughout. Reminiscent of those fancy brunches from childhood—the kind where cooks in chefs’ whites stand behind skillets at the table and custom-make your order while you stand nearby, dressed up, your plate piled high with pastries and fruit and French toast you pulled from a stainless steel platter.

Next time, I might let the mixture brown less, but overall, this was a good first step. And anyway, I am quite sure now that made-in-minutes omelettes are the things good weekend mornings are made of, especially when followed by hours reading in the sunshine, your dog at your side, and a long nap in the afternoon, and a hot fudge sundae, before you watch a silly movie and go to bed too late.

finished omelette




Asparagus & Mozzarella Omelette
Adapted from Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking

Ingredients:
Two eggs
Some chopped asparagus (cooked ahead of time)
Some shredded mozzarella
Salt and pepper
2 Tablespoons butter

Directions:
In a small bowl, whisk together two eggs, just until the yolks and whites have combined.

Heat a nonstick skillet (I used half of a frittata pan) over high heat and melt 2 Tablespoons of butter, moving the pan around to distribute the butter evenly. When the butter becomes liquid and slightly froths, pour egg mixture inside.

Give the eggs 2 to 3 seconds to form a slight surface on the bottom. Then, begin shaking the pan towards you, holding it at a slight angle. Add asparagus and mozzarella. As the mixture solidifies, continue moving the pan back and forth. Then increase the angle slightly to encourage the omelette to fold over onto itself. If it doesn’t naturally, you can use a fork to help it along.

Let the omelette cook a bit longer and slide it onto your plate.

close your eyes and eat

brown butter cookies

The truth is, I have more to tell you about D.C.—like about the crazy-sweet frosting at Hello Cupcake, which was tall enough to catch on the tip of our noses when we bit into the cake; the breakfast crepes across from our hotel, filled with Nutella and strawberries; the Neapolitan-style pizza at 2 Amys, a restaurant more than one of you recommended and that makes some killer prosciutto and potato croquettes. But that will all have to wait, maybe for a day when you and I sit down in person instead, because right now, there are bigger things to talk about. Things like this brown butter shortbread.

I actually made these shortbread cookies in December, and as for why I haven’t posted them until now: all I can offer is a pathetic nod to the seemingly unending cookie recipes that were flowing around here at that time. It had reached the point where, one day, I had to promise myself to stop—no more cookies!—in an effort to keep from being the Blogger Who Only Talks About One Thing, ever. Then again, now that I’m looking back, would that have been so bad?

There is a comfort in familiarity, which is probably why I’ve been craving cookies so much lately. When you’ve fought the world, so to speak, whether at your office, with your kids or on the highway—it’s nice to come home, take a warm bite of sweetness in your hands, close your eyes and eat.

brown butter shortbread cookies

This recipe comes from Lottie + Doof and offers a crumbly, nubbly texture with flecks of sea salt on top. Its flavor, sweet and nutty, is the kind that has you reaching for one piece after another, after another—and, believe me, I did.

Plus, while I wouldn’t say good looks are a requirement for comfort food, they’re certainly not a drawback—and these cookies are pretty. You might want to make them for someone you really like. Otherwise, you’ll have a hard time letting them go. Please trust me on this.

brown butter cookies

One more thing: subscribing! In the recent survey, a number of you indicated that you weren’t sure how to subscribe to Food Loves Writing. It really couldn’t be simpler, and I’m going to show you: go over to subscribe page and either (a) enter your e-mail to receive a note in your inbox when something new gets posted or (b) copy the link for an RSS feed here and insert it into your Google Reader or Bloglines account (or whatever RSS reader you use). If you want to know more about RSS and how it works, click here.




Brown Butter Shortbread
Adapted from Lottie + Doof

Ingredients:
1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1/2 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
Granulated, Demerara, or Turbinado sugar for sprinkling (I used sugar in the raw)

Directions:
Lightly grease either a fluted tart pan (with a removable bottom) or an 8-inch square pan (lined with aluminum foil that hangs over the sides for easy removal).

Brown butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it turns a darker, caramel color and emits a warm, nutty smell. Be careful not to let it burn—you’re looking for deeper color, but it should not get blackish or smell burned at all. Once it’s reached the right consistency, remove it from heat.

Combine the melted butter with sugar, vanilla and salt in a medium bowl. Add flour and mix until combined. Spread dough in prepared pan, and let it stand for two hours or even overnight.

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F.

Bake the shortbread for 45 minutes; afterwards, remove the pan from the oven but leave the oven on. Lightly sprinkle the surface of the shortbread with the sugar, and let it cool for 10 minutes.

Carefully remove the sides of the tart pan or lift the shortbread out by the extended aluminum foil. Using a very sharp knife, cut the shortbread into 12 triangular wedges. Place these wedges on a baking sheet lined with parchment (or a Silpat). Return to the oven and toast for 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.