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Archive for December, 2008

a fair trade

double chocolate biscotti

People don’t have dinner parties much nowadays, which is really a shame, I think. I mean, they still happen, less formally usually, but mostly eating at someone’s house has been replaced by meeting them at a restaurant. And there is something lost in not cooking for friends and being cooked for by them. For one, you won’t be trading recipes afterwards, and, that is a loss indeed.

My mom’s apricot chicken isn’t really hers; it came from Alice, who had our family over years ago. My favorite butter cake came from Mrs. Newman, who made it for us—especially for me—many times before I finally coaxed the recipe from her. Some of my most-loved meals came from someone else’s kitchen.

In a way, maybe that’s part of the appeal of food blogging. Pull up a good food blog, and you’re the guest in someone’s home, someone you come to know if you visit often enough. You see what ingredients and preparation went into the meal. You read the host’s reactions and promises for good outcomes. Over time, you come to trust the blogger, and, as here I hope, you find yourself tucking away the recipes like you would a good friend’s.

That said, I’ve got a real treat for you. Of all the cookies I’ve given people, these are the ones that everyone wants the recipe for. They are the first biscotti I ever baked, the ones that I made for my friend’s wedding, the ones that taste like chewy chocolate cookies with a bit of bite. I’ve made them for my family, co-workers, a boyfriend, long-distance friends. Everyone likes them. While biscotti traditionally seems a bit more refined than a classic chocolate-chip cookie (I remember that same old boyfriend telling me a kid wouldn’t like biscotti, but that was before he tasted them) these will please any palate. (And, as an added bonus, there will be no pistachio shelling involved (!!).)

If you’re at all intimidated by the term biscotti—and won’t there be double baking involved?—don’t be. These are so, so easy, I promise, I promise. I’ll risk my whole you’re-eating-my-food reputation on it. These biscotti are the kind of cookies you can count on, perfect to wow anyone who likes chocolate, and the work involved is no more than it would take to make any other cookie.

Essentially, for biscotti, you make up a cookie dough–simple ingredients like butter, flour, sugar, eggs, with the boost of cocoa powder for the chocolate flavor—which will be formed into two logs and baked. Remove from the oven and cool for an hour or overnight, then slice up into biscotti-size pieces to be baked again.

That’s it.

You can bake them longer or shorter to define the crunch factor. And they only improve over the next few days.



Hello, Twitter! Everyone else seems to be tweeting, so I decided to join them. If you’d like to keep up with Food Loves Writing on twitter, you can do so here, under the title foodloves (and if you’re a food blogger on there, let me know your twitter name).

On to the recipe!




Double-Chocolate Biscotti
Adapted from Better Homes & Gardens

For a traditionally crunchy biscotti—the kind you dip in your coffee without it dissolving into your cup—you’ll have to bake these a bit longer (it’s best to keep your eye on them). Before you go for crunchy, though, taste them after the first bake—they’ll be soft, chewy, a lot more like a fudgey cookie than a crunchy biscotti. A lot of tasters prefer them that way, in fact.

Ingredients:
1/3 cup butter
2/3 cup sugar
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 eggs
1 ¾ cup flour
¾ cup white baking pieces, or bar, coarsely chopped
½ cup semisweet chocolate, chopped

Directions:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, beat butter with an electric mixer on medium speed for about 30 seconds. Add sugar, cocoa powder and baking powder, and beat until combined. Next, beat in eggs.

Beat in as much of the flour as you can. Using a spoon, stir in any remaining flour, white baking pieces and semisweet chocolate. Divide dough in half.

Shape each half into a 9-inch-long log, and place these logs, about four inches apart, on a greased cookie sheet. Flatten them slightly until about two inches wide.

Bake logs in a 375 degree oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted near the centers comes out clean.

Cool on the cookie sheet on a wire rack for 1 hour (you can also wrap the logs in plastic and let stand overnight).

After you cool the logs, you slice them diagonally into biscotti-sized pieces. Place them, cut side down, on a fresh, parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake for 7 to 9 minutes on each side, or for about 12 minutes total. Just watch them to see if they look like the right consistency.

together, baking

brownie snowflakes

It’s been a blur of flour, butter and chocolate around here lately, and, honestly, you’d think I’d be sick of it. But I’m not.

For the last month, I’ve been embracing holiday baking with arms wide open—and have the freezer full of cookies to prove it. There were the oatmeal chocolate-chip cookies, yes. Then the crumbly brown butter cookies; next, Earl Grey. Monday, on my cooking day, I made biscotti, four kinds of slice-and-bakes and, on a whim, triangle-shaped brown butter shortbread, after seeing it on Lottie & Doof. Right now, even as I type this, my sore throat aching and six blankets on top of me (thank you, winter), I’m dreaming of Molly’s peppermint bark and deciding I’ll have time to make it, too. Priorities, you know?

There’s something wonderful, food-wise, about this time of year. As the holidays approach, even non-cooks, the ones who say they aren’t very interested in the kitchen, have been known to pull out a cookie sheet and to frost some sugary Christmas trees or snowmen cut-outs. It’s just what you do in late December.

While I package up fudgey, sugary chocolate snowflakes in square, red tins—a gift for my coworkers—it’s with the knowledge that I am not alone. I know there are kitchens throughout Chicagoland, throughout the country, throughout the world, serving as backdrops for powdered-sugar and creamed-butter activities. And I’ll admit that’s part of why I like it.

There’s a unity, a sense of us all being in on this together. This time of year, we’re all part of a large community that watches the same White Christmas or It’s a Wonderful Life on television, that checks off names on the same kinds of gift lists, that travels to see people we love, wherever they may be. I like to think that at Christmastime, especially, we reflect a little better the essence of something we all desire and for which we were made: love.

cooking giving


Brownie Roll-Out Cookies
from Smitten Kitchen

The first time I saw this recipe, I rejected it, thinking I didn’t have a flower cutter, and what would look as nice? Really, though, any large shape would work. I happened upon this snowflake shape accidentally, and I love how large it makes the cookies. These chocolate treats would work especially well, I think, as the containers of an ice cream sandwich, or even as the bottom of a hot fudge sundae. You try it and decide.

Ingredients:
3 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup butter: 1/2 cup salted, 1/2 cup unsalted
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa

Directions:
Preheat oven at 350 degrees. Whisk dry flour, salt and baking powder in bowl and set aside. Mix butter, sugar, eggs, vanilla and cocoa in mixer. Gradually add flour mixture, and mix until smooth. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least one hour.

Roll out cookie dough on floured counter. Cut into desired shapes, brushing extra deposits of flour off the top. (It does disappear once baked, though, so don’t overly fret if they go into the oven looking white.) Bake on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 8 to 11 minutes (the former for 1/8-inch thick cookies, the latter for 1/4-inch cookies) until the edges are firm and the centers are slightly soft and puffed.

Carefully transfer to a wire rack to cool. (Be especially careful if you’re using a cutter that makes for delicate pieces, like snowflake arms.)

Oh, boy.

Well. I don’t know what kind of weather you’ve been having where you are, but here in Chicago, we’re receiving a little bit of a blizzard. Actually, that’s not right. There’s nothing little about it. Six inches of fluffy white fell fast and furious through the end of my work day and into my commute, meaning what usually makes for a 30-minute drive became just under two hours, full of fishtailing and slushy slow-crawling and, well, clutching the steering wheel while fighting back tears.

Through all that time in the car, I spent a lot of time thinking, mainly about how only an idiot doesn’t fill up her gas tank the morning of a projected snowstorm. That was quickly followed, though, by the list of people I could call if I hit empty before reaching an exit, and then a realization that I am blessed indeed. Also, I knew that if I ever did reach home again (and I was praying with all my heart and shaking hands that I would), there was a golden roasted turkey waiting for me.

amazing roasted chicken

The turkey, a shining triumph in my eyes, was the fruit of having Monday off work and spending the day—where else?—in the kitchen. My blogging friend Macheesmo recently posted his version of Roasted Lemon Chicken, and the moment I saw it, I knew I would make it. I mean, really, look at it! Since he mentioned being inspired by Tyler Florence, I checked out Food Network as well, and what I created was a combination of the two recipes.

It was, simply, delicious: moist, tender, garlicky, filled with refreshing citrus. At first bite, it reminded me of those rotisserie chickens you can buy at the grocery store, which, if you were to spy on me when I need a fast meal, is the kind of thing you’d see me grabbing, along with a loaf of fresh, crusty Italian bread.

But a few more bites in, I realized it was better. Like, OH BOY, better. The-reward-at-the-end-of-a-long-commute better. Did-I-really-make-this better!?

I gave some to my brother, who raved and raved about how much he loved it and then e-mailed me this afternoon to say again it was amazing. And I knew, steadying my vehicle on the final hill, two stoplights before home, that it would be a warm, comforting, satisfying dinner on a night when I felt cold and wet and in need of something hearty.

(By the way, I did hear, in the course of that drive, that other parts of the country are or will soon be receiving similar weather, so, if you live, well, anywhere, there’s a chance you’ll want this chicken, too.)

Another thing you should know about this meal: it’s very easy. I promise. You season the bird, stuff it with half a lemon, half a head of garlic, some herbs, and then you stick it in a roasting pan, surrounded by potatoes and carrots. (Note: Macheesmo used a 9 X 13 pan with good results, so that’s another option.) Stick it in the oven for a while, and, for a rotisserie effect, you’ll turn it every 20 minutes or so. The turning proved to be the only difficult part, but it’s entirely optional.

Oh, and it goes fast. When I came home, all wanting to kiss the ground and collapse on the sofa, the roast turkey was on the counter, completely eaten. This is what was left, literally:

what was waiting for me

I’m just saying: You won’t want to wait on this one.



Roasted Lemon Chicken with Potatoes and Carrots
Adapted from Macheesmo and Tyler Florence

Ingredients:
1 (4 to 5 pound) free-range chicken
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon, halved
1 head garlic, halved
1/4 bunch each fresh rosemary and parsley
1/4 cup olive oil
2-pound mix of red new potatoes, fingerling potatoes and baby carrots

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Rinse the chicken with cool water, inside and out, then pat it dry with paper towels. Season the cavity with salt and pepper, and then stuff the lemon half, garlic half (chop a garlic head right in half, easy as that) and herbs inside. Place the chicken, breast-side up, in a roasting pan. Toss the potatoes and carrots around the chicken.

Season the whole thing with a fair amount of salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Roast the chicken and potatoes for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until the thermometer says 170 degrees F when inserted into the thickest part of the thighs. Every 15 to 20 minutes, turn the chicken 45 degrees, in order to create a rotisserie effect and make the skin nice and crispy. Toss the potatoes and carrots to ensure even cooking. You’ll also want to baste periodically—with the pan juices, with squeezed lemon, with chunks of butter. I also used a tongs to rub the garlic, which had fallen out, over the outsides.

Once the meat is fully cooked, remove the chicken to a platter and let stand for 10 minutes, so the juices settle back into the meat before carving. Serve with the roasted potatoes on the side.