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Archive for September, 2008

Rosemary Cookies from Heaven

rosemary sprigs

If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s fakeness. Hate me, ignore me, laugh at me, whatever—as long as you’re being honest and you mean it. Just don’t, please, if you have any heart, don’t put on for me. Don’t tell me you like A when you hate A. Don’t tell me you do B when you don’t. Just, for heaven’s sake, be real. That’s it, that’s all I ask.

Thing is, being authentic, always acting sincerely, is harder than it sounds. Take work: Do I always, always want to go to work in the morning? No, of course not, sometimes my bed feels positively warm and wonderful and all I want is to stay in it a bit longer. I’ll still go to work, though. And when I do, go to work, that is, I can’t very well announce to every person I see that, Just so you know, I’m pretty tired and cranky this morning, so I don’t want to be here. No, I can’t very well do that at all.

So here I am, hypocrite and hypocrite-hater, wishing for—in other people—the very thing I am want to lack, wishing for people to be real, in some sense of the word, without being real, as in open and honest about everything.

You may not think it at first, but this is kind of what I’m starting to like about rosemary or, really, food in general. It’s honest and dishonest. It’s exactly what you think and then, not what you think at all. All my life, for example, rosemary’s been one thing—a woody, fragrant herb that works nicely in focaccia or marinades or with potatoes. Certainly not with fish, No, thank you. Certainly not with cakes or pie. And, honestly, I’m sure I would have told you: Certainly not in cookies.

Rosemary is a funny herb. With its pointy needles, extending from stems and deepening from green to purple in color, its branches look a little like tiny Christmas trees. And the smell—it’s so powerful, so knock-you-over strong, that it’s positively arresting.

In many ways, rosemary’s also something of a surprise, because it’s full of uses that are unordinary. I just caught a recipe for buttermilk and rosemary ice cream, for example; appetizing? Before you say no, ask yourself, Could it be interesting? Could it be different? Could it be delicious?

fresh from oven

Without trying it, you just won’t know. And that, essentially, is why you need to try this recipe. Rosemary cookies. Of all the things. Who would’ve thought to put a strong herb into a sable-style cookie? (Well, Martha Stewart, who else?)

These cookies are fantastic. No, better than that, outstanding! No, near perfection!

What they do especially well, beyond the sheer pleasure of their texture and perfect crunch as you bite in, is a subtle combination of both sweet and salty flavor. The recipe’s coarse salt works with the rosemary to make these sweet, sugary cookies savory. And oh, are they ever! Try them. It’s enough to make a food adventurer out of all of us.

rosemary cookies





Rosemary Butter Cookies
Slighted adapted from Martha Stewart’s Cookies

Ingredients:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg plus 1 egg white, beaten
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon coarse salt (I used kosher)
1/2 cup fine sanding sugar (I just used granulated)

Directions:
1. Put butter and granulated sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Mix in whole egg and vanilla. Reduce speed to low. Add flour, rosemary and salt, and mix until combined.

2. Halve dough; shape each half into a log. Place each log on a 12 X 16 sheet of parchment. Roll in the parchment to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Freeze until firm, about an hour or overnight works fine.

3. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Brush each log with beaten egg white; roll in sugar. Cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds. Space each cookie about an each apart on baking sheets lined with parchment (or a Silpat! I love mine!). Bake until edges are golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool on sheets on wire racks. Cookies may be stored in airtight containers at room temperature for up to three days.

Note: I do eat other things besides cookies, I assure you, not that you could tell from my blogging this week. Mom, if you’re reading, I’m OK! It’s just that I really, really love cookies and find it easy to write about them. I didn’t think you’d mind. One bite of these beauties, and you’ll be a cookie convert, too.

On Grilling

I am one of those people who thinks everything tastes better when it’s cooked over open flames. (I am also one of those people who shouldn’t be allowed anywhere near fire, as I am known for forgetting cookies are in the oven, the flame’s under the kettle, the handle on the grill is white-hot, hence any grilling I am involved with absolutely, definitely requires assistance.)

image of grill

In typical long-weekend-for-Americans fashion, my family grilled out for Labor Day this year. The evening before, I mixed a few marinades—one for the chicken and one for the veggies—letting the chicken soak up the rosemary-infused, garlic, lemony juices overnight. Beyond the chicken, we would have zucchini, squash, garlic naan, a big salad (and, anything at all else I’d decide to toss on last-minute, since, when one’s charcoal opportunities are limited, she must make the most of the hot flames while she’s got them).

lemon for marinade

Monday morning, I brainstormed a nutella panini with strawberries, buttering one side (the side to be grilled first) and using fresh, pre-sliced Italian bread. My pictures are terrible, so I’ll just tell you: ooey-gooey chocolate nutty flavor, mixed with juicy bits of fresh strawberries, sandwiched between the crunchy bite of grilled bread—I think I’m beginning to understand why people buy panini-makers.

chicken

The chicken was very good—my mom can barbeque like a champ, even in the heat of 90-degree weather—but my marinade didn’t shine through much, we decided. Maybe because it orginally called for thighs, and we used boneless, skinless breasts? Either way, the meat was beautifully tender and delicious, the way only a hot charcoal grill can get it.

veggies

And I really enjoyed the veggies, which is something since I’m not their biggest fan, normally, particularly not when it comes to squash or zucchini. This marinade is based on a recipe from Emeril, and I only made a few tweaks, partially because of not having certain items (running out of olive oil, tragedy!) and partially just because of preference (can you have too much garlic? too much basil?).

As summer’s barely ending and we look forward to a few months of fall’s crisp afternoons and brisk night air, I’d say this marinade would make a great addition to a barbeque anytime. Not to mention, fall will bring us fresh, local-grown vegetables to play with.





Vegetable Marinade
Adapted from Emeril Lagasse

Ingredients:
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil (mixed mine with canola)
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar (easy alternative: half vinegar, half water, bit of sugar)
3 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1 tablespoon minced garlic (more is good)
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Veggies (use whatever you’d like!)
We chose:
1 large eggplant, ends trimmed, sliced lengthwise into 1/3-inch thick slices
1 pound yellow squash and zucchini, ends trimmed and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick slices

Directions:
Whisk ingredients together in a mixing bowl. when it comes time to cook, brush this mixture all over your veggies before placing them on the grill. Keep your eye on them, turning them until they begin to brown and show grill lines.

And finally, the long weekend

image of THE cookie

Everybody seems to have a chocolate-chip cookie recipe they swear by as their long-standing, all-time best. And for this cookie-lover, trying each and every one of those recipes is a feat worth attempting. But recently, first at Orangette, then in clips at Tastespotting, then at the article itself in the New York Times, I heard about THE chocolate-chip cookies, the ones that the experts got together on (or most specifically, David Leite) and created, the one that is really, truly the absolute best of the best and the chocolate-chip cookie that will make you dance with joy. I was this weekend, after more than a month of hearing such high praises, convinced of one thing. I have to have them, and I have to have them now.

It’s a long weekend, and, most poetically, it’s a long weekend all about celebrating the labor forces of our country. A weekend about how hard we all work? A weekend to celebrate with an extra day off? No, really, could there be a more perfect time to try these perfect cookies?

Personally, I cannot think of a better way to commemorate than with these best, tastiest, highly acclaimed and much-blogged-about chocolate-chip delights. And it’s a really good thing it’s a long weekend, indeed, as these cookies take time. 36 hours, to be exact.

cookie dough

What I’ve learned, via the NY Times article, is that the best bakers swear by chilling the cookie dough for 24 to 36 hours before baking. This wait time, though agonizing for sugar fiends like myself, is all-important for letting the liquid ingredients seep into the dry ones. I’ll tell you now: that fact alone almost stopped me from making these. It was probably the only thing, in fact, because after one reads a post at Orangette, it’s hard to find reasons to do anything but leap to the kitchen and begin whistling a happy tune.

But now, having combined the ingredients with my new KitchenAid mixer and stored the dough in my refrigerator for 22 hours the first time, then 40 for the next batch, I’ll tell you this much: it’s worth it. It was worth it when I brought them to a dinner party Saturday night and saw people going for seconds, then thirds. It was worth it when the batches disappeared at home as fast as I could bake them. It was, mostly, worth it the moment I bit into a cookie’s crunchy outer rim and moved into the soft, chewy center. These aren’t just any chocolate-chip cookies. These are the ultimate chocolate-chip cookies, the only chocolate-chip cookies, the ones you have to, have to, have to try.

fresh cookies on Silpat

In terms of the recipe proper, I stuck pretty close to the original instructions, even using the cake flour and the bread flour, as the recipe says, since we had them on hand. (I’ve heard all-purpose is a reliable stand-in, if you must.) The only things I changed were:

1) The chocolate discs: Whole Foods didn’t even have the fancy discs, and there’s no way I was going to hunt for a specialty store just in the name of finding them. As Molly did in her adaptation, I used Ghiradelli bittersweet chocolate chips, which are 60% cacao. On that note, I only bought one bag of chips, which is roughly 11.5 ounces, nowhere near the 20 ounces (1 1/4 pounds) the recipe requests. In my opinion, the result was plenty chocolatey, with huge chunks in every bite I tasted.

2) The brown sugar: As fate would have it, we were left with only an 1/8 cup of brown sugar in the house. Rather than reshopping, I Googled substitutes and made my own mix of white sugar and molasses.

3) The sea salt: We didn’t have sea salt on hand, and I wasn’t intrigued enough to buy a package. We did, however, have coarse kosher salt, and I figured that’d do the trick just as well. (However, I’ll admit I’ve now read enough online about sea salt to think it worth testing out in not just this, but many foods.)





Chocolate-Chip Cookies
Adapted from The New York Times, David Leite and Jacques Torres; and Orangette, Molly Wizenberg

Ingredients:
2 cups minus 2 tablespoons (8 ½ ounces) cake flour
1 2/3 cups (8 ½ ounces) bread flour
1 ¼ teaspoons baking soda
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 ½ teaspoons coarse salt, such as kosher
2 ½ sticks (1 ¼ cups; 10 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1 ¼ cups (10 ounces) light brown sugar (alternate option: granulated sugar + molasses)
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 ¼ pounds bittersweet chocolate chips or chunks, preferably about 60% cacao content
Coarse salt for sprinkling

Directions:
Sift flours, baking soda, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Set aside.

Using a mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream butter and sugars together until very light, about 5 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Reduce speed to low, add dry ingredients and mix until just combined, 5 to 10 seconds. Drop chocolate pieces in and incorporate them without breaking them. Press plastic wrap against dough and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours. Dough may be used in batches, and can be refrigerated for up to 72 hours.

When ready to bake, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick baking mat (I love my Silpat!). Set aside.

Scoop 6 mounds of dough (the size of generous golf balls) onto baking sheet, making sure to turn horizontally any chocolate pieces that are poking up; it will make for a more attractive cookie. Sprinkle lightly with coarse salt and bake until golden brown but still soft, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer sheet to a wire rack for 10 minutes, then slip cookies onto another rack to cool a bit more. Repeat with remaining dough, or reserve dough, refrigerated, for baking remaining batches the next day.